– 2017 Climber. Photo: Pablo Betancourt. Kate, Shane, Bobby and Erik are acclimating in the Ecuadorian Andes. While this letter is 10+ years old, we feel it is still a great resource. Alpine Ascents International leads expeditions that have become benchmarks of quality in the climbing community. Aconcagua is a mountain that provides climbers with many unique experiences and an array of different challenges. This spectacular mountain is surrounded by numerous peaks over 20,000 ft. While some minimum standard such as being able to run a 10K in under an hour is helpful (and well below the marker of who will be successful), it is often hard to predict how non-mountaineering training will translate to Aconcagua. —2020 Climber Alpine Rock Climbing. Guides will boil water or purify using a chemical treatment like iodine or a chlorine solution. We started the day with a gear check, followed by lunch, and a tour of the city. Breakfast and dinners are provided on the climb. The letter is what motivated me the most. This expertise is based upon years of accumulated experience-not just from individual mountain guides, but through experience on particular mountains where details are fine-tuned over time. (Please note the Guanacos Route has been closed for the past several years in an effort to protect the large number of guanacos that breed and raise young in the area.) Combine ascents of two Seven Summit peaks, Mount Vinson and Aconcagua in one trip. Alpine Ascents International leads expeditions that have become benchmarks of quality in the climbing community. We climb Aconcagua using both the Vacas Valley Route (Polish Variation) and the Normal Route. Traditionally there are three guided routes on Aconcagua: Normal Route, Vacas Valley Polish Variation, and the Guanacos Glacier Route. Posted on February 5, 2020 by alpineascents. Without them, there is no way that I and our other climbers would have successfully summited. The cool thing about this trip was the vast knowledge we had guiding the trip. From our training statement: Our gear lists represent years of carefully considering only and exactly what is needed for a given climb. This is a mountain that is easy to underestimate, and I thought it was like a trap after Denali. Matthias Zurbriggen (15 May 1856 in Saas-Fee – 21 June 1917 in Geneva) was a Swiss mountaineer.He climbed throughout the Alps, the Andes, the Himalayas and New Zealand.. Ascents. It is also worth noting that less fit or overweight people are pushing themselves far more, and this additional stress can seriously adversely affect the entire acclimation process that is so important on high-altitude expeditions. Buenas noches! We accept MasterCard, Visa, American Express, personal checks and Alpine Ascents gift certificates. Like any big mountain, things can change frequently and rapidly. Alaska 12-Day. Good evening family, friends and loved ones. Climbers must be physically and mentally prepared to deal with strenuous situations at high altitudes. However, not all rental items are available for pickup in Talkeetna. They exhibited exceptional leadership during the easy and hard times of the expedition. Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above risk forfeiture of their place on the expedition. December 12, 2020 – January 2, 2021 What paperwork do I need to send in? Payment for Alaska rentals will be charged to the on-file credit card after your gear check, including a $50 security deposit per item. Alpine Ascents cybercast for Team VII Aconcagua, this is Garrett Madison and Kajsa Krieger on January 6th. Aconcagua Mountain Guides not only provides alternative pricing to Alpine Ascents but also give Alpine Ascents a unique advantage as compared to other outfitters, as our partnership affords resources such as mules, base camp facilities and local guides. We are now departing this morning for the ride back to Mendoza, so this will be the last Las Pumas update. Thanks again to AAI for another unbelievable trip! At 22,829ft, Aconcagua is the tallest mountain in the Americas, and the highest mountain in the world outside of Asia. Includes porters for group gear The perfect match and we all say that without them that it would have made it much more difficult to achieve the ultimate goal of summiting. Though an ascent of Aconcagua by any of these routes requires minimal technical skills, it does require excellent physical condition and good backpacking and camping skills. While all items are required, there may be times when some of the items on the Gear List are not used (such as during warm weather or changing conditions). Alpine Ascents looks to employ the finest guides in the industry, whether highly skilled instructors, experts in particular mountains or environs, as well as leaders and decision makers in the complex world of mountaineering. Whatever personal health limitations you may have, you never know how your body will cope with in an environment such as Aconcagua until you try it a few times, so be conservative. Our2018/19 season we had 11 of 13 teams reach summit (100% on the Vacas Valley Route). The surrounding lowlands (up to 13,000 ft.) consist of beautiful desert landscapes with a large diversity of flora and fauna. Baker Ski Descent. Or simply Book Online. Baker. Hello, this is Willi Prittie calling in and reporting from Argentina, with the Alpine Ascents International Aconcagua program. Alpine Ascents International has a long standing reputation of leading successful climbs as well as acting as a prime resource for guide books, climbers and the media. We operate what we believe is the finest mountaineering school in the country. Please note that this climb is far more demanding than Kilimanjaro. Adams Ski Descent. We are … You will occasionally read on the internet, or in magazine articles, or in guidebooks about how ugly Aconcagua is. Are there any entry or Visa requirements? The Prittie letter was the most helpful. Alpine Ascents’ philosophy is based on a true love and understanding of mountain wilderness. While the first summit of Aconcagua is credited to Swiss climber Mathias Zurbriggen, there are traces of Inca civilization and culture near the summit. Our guides were remarkable leaders who offered the right mix of experience, expertise, and inspiration. Not at this time for US citizens — details are in your Climber Information Package. We help facilitate this effort by passing on Leave No Trace training and literature to every Alpine Ascents climber. 6-Day Course. Aconcagua; Carstensz Pyramid; Denali; Mount Elbrus; Mount Everest; Mount Kilimanjaro; Mount Vinson; Additional Information. 29 talking about this. We’re all doing … Continue reading → Peru: Salkantay Mountain Trek to Machu Picchu. In other news, we now have a team name! You will occasionally read on the internet, or in magazine articles, or in guidebooks about how ugly Aconcagua is. Thirty days prior to departure, we mail a list of other team members to you. Over the last 25+ years we have developed a superb system on the mountain that affords you the best chance of proper acclimatization and summit success. We believe that with our guides and acclimatization schedule, along with our pre-trip assistance, Alpine Ascents offers the best possible chance for you to reach the summit of Aconcagua. – everything was just perfect!! In our continuing efforts to match best climbers and mountains we thank you in advance for reviewing this “self-test”. Lead Guide: TBD Whether explicitly spoken or implied, this is the question many climbers ask of themselves, their friends, and perhaps their guides. As our literature suggests, Aconcagua is an extremely challenging climb; far more physically demanding than Kilimanjaro and most climbs in the continental US. No other guide service has the safety record, quality of guides, finely honed programs, food, care, quality, and customer service that we offer. – 2017 Climber. What is the best season to climb / which dates will have the highest chance for success? This is a highly recommended shortlist and we would be happy to pass on a longer reading list for those interested. We operate what we believe is the finest mountaineering school in the country. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Alpine Ascents manages the local outfitter giving us access to unlimited support for every part of the climb. We are happy to work with you on developing a training program. The success is a testament to our guides and the hard work and team spirit of our climbers. Note: Alpine Ascents reserves the right to waive any fees. First and foremost, many tend to underestimate the physical fitness needs of a high-altitude expedition such as this. Much like the explorers of the Himalayas, the passes around Aconcagua came into play during military expeditions. We started the day with a gear check, followed by lunch, and a tour of the city. We choose to guide the Polish Vacas Variation Route on the east side of the mountain because it sees less traffic, is a much more aesthetic approach, and gives us the opportunity to traverse the mountain. Rainier or Mt. We are safely back in Mendoza with our stomachs full of great food and wine and our minds stuffed with amazing memories. Standing on the Summit of the Americas. We are happy to work with you on developing a training program. After nearly 30 expeditions and 40 summits of Aconcagua in the past 15 years, I have made many observations about the types of problems that prospective high-altitude climbers tend to have most commonly, especially on this mountain. Are you comfortable with the use of crampons and ice axes when tired and looking down a long way? We will send out a chart outlining the evacuation early departure fee with your team roster about 30 days before departure. Alpine Ascents International guests receive a 10% discount on these plans with the code available when they book any trip. With a seasonal office in Mendoza, we can quickly respond to issues that arise on the mountain. How many climbers are on this expedition? This package will include all of the details for your trip. December 26, 2020 – January 16, 2021 Please click here for more information and to see AMG’s departure dates. America's Premier Mountain Guide Service and Climbing School www.AlpineAscents.com Without them, there is no way that I and our other climbers would have successfully summited. There may be many personal reasons to choose a particular guide service, but there are four main areas of concern that you should look at carefully: safety record, guides, in-country logistics, and pre-trip planning with the climber. Bring plenty of your normal meds and be prepared for the possibility that you may have abnormally bad reactions, which may mean you will need to leave the expedition early. 30 talking about this. Baker. Details will be in your confirmation materials (Climber Information Package). $5,100.00 Photo: Willi Prittie. New Zealand Ascents Lying right on our doorstep, New Zealand’s rugged Southern Alps are wild and pristine with varied and diverse climbing challenges—sufficient to provide any climber with countless years of worthy objectives. Being both fit and technically competent for the challenges of an expedition is a very important part of being a productive team member. Rarely more than 10; on occasion we may have 11. Document your athletic experience, and analyze your readiness for this climb. We also offer the Normal Route which is shorter, somewhat less demanding, and has a porter package built in to the ascent. Alpine Ascents guided climb of Mt Aconcagua January 2017 10 Climbers and 3 guides all successfully summit the highest mountain is South America. – everything was just perfect!! Our Aconcagua Add-On Expeditions are private departures scheduled to directly follow any of our Mount Vinson expeditions. Usually it will be well worth your time to complete a beginning mountaineering climbing course, such as one of the following by Alpine Ascents: Cascades 6 Day, Rainier 8 Day, Alaska 8 Day, Alaska 12 Day, or have equivalent skills and experience. “A reasonable goal would be to ascend 3,200–3,500 ft. carrying an average pack of 40 lbs. I cannot overstate what tremendous assets they are to AAI and am so grateful for their leadership. Extremely high quality camps and gear on both routes. This expertise is based upon years of accumulated experience-not just from individual mountain guides, but through experience on particular mountains where details are fine-tuned over time. Patagonia – Cerro San Lorenzo; Cho Oyu; Great Peaks of Bolivia; Great Peaks of Peru; Island Peak, Nepal; Mera Peak, Nepal From the Mountains. Alpine Ascents International has a long standing reputation of leading successful climbs as well as acting as a prime resource for guide books, climbers and the media. Have you completed multiple overnight camping trips, which included carrying a heavy pack (40–55lbs) and setting up a tent camp each evening ? How about the guide? You will share rooms on this expedition in town, or you can pay a higher fee for single rooms. Porters can be hired on each route to lessen pack weight to approximately 20lbs on move/carry days. How much should I budget for this expedition? Many of our guides have been with Alpine Ascents for over five years, with a handful of veterans working with us for most of their careers. Contact our office for information on single rooms. —2020 Climber, As usual AAI delivered great and quality service on this expedition. Baker beforehand. Home; Monthly Archives: June 2019. About 54% of climbers ascend the Normal Route, 43% up The Polish Glacier Route, and the … While some minimum standard such as being able to run a 10K in under an hour is helpful (and well below the marker of who will be successful), it is often hard to predict how non-mountaineering training will translate to Aconcagua. As our literature suggests, Aconcagua is an extremely challenging climb; far more physically demanding than Kilimanjaro and most climbs in the continental US. Lead Guide: TBD, Alpine Ascents owns and operates Argentinean-based Aconcagua Mountain Guides, providing the same excellence as Alpine Ascents with certified Argentinean guides. We had an outstanding 2018/19 season with 100% team success on the Vacas Valley and 11 of 13 teams reaching the summit overall. There is much misinformation about this mountain both in guidebooks and on the internet. While not technical, Aconcagua is a highly underestimated climb. 23 talking about this. Well, after our summit attempt we made our descent to basecamp and then hiked out via the Horcones Valley yesterday. The name itself hearkens back to indigenous roots, the Quechua word “Anco” (white) and “Cahuac” (sentinel). Our guides were remarkable leaders who offered the right mix of experience, expertise, and inspiration. The Legendary South Face of Aconcagua. From start to finish, my Aconcagua experience was world class in every regard. Is there any communication while we are on the mountain? Guides are well-equipped, experienced, and prepared to lead and properly outfit your climb, as we keep a staff and apartment in the launch city of Mendoza. Loaded Smartphone (the Electronic Multi-Tool) A smartphone […]. The climbers made it to Mendoza with all of their luggages. Take heed of this. American Alpine Institute was one of the first guide services to regularly climb Aconcagua. The Prittie letter was the most helpful. Aconcagua Mountain Guides not only provides alternative pricing to Alpine Ascents but also give Alpine Ascents a unique advantage as compared to other outfitters, as we own and operate all of our own resources such as mules, base camp facilities and local guides. It was a wonderful experience on all fronts – very professionally done. We choose to guide the Polish Vacas Variation Route on the east side of the mountain because it sees less traffic, is a much more aesthetic approach, and gives us the opportunity to traverse the mountain. This followed our 2018/2019 season of 85% success (100% on Normal route) which proved our best season to date as we added the Normal Route to our offerings and had overall 100% team success for the 2nd season in a row. We operate what we believe is the finest mountaineering school in the country. More about the Normal Route, The best guides I have ever had! Do you have a history of heart problems? We also offer the Normal Route which is shorter, somewhat less demanding, and has a porter package built in to the ascent. Baker summit climb, or the equivalent. Have you put a 50 or 60-pound pack on and climbed extensive mountain terrain? More about the Vacas Valley Route, Aconcagua Normal Route: This is a shorter and more direct route with porter support to carry group gear (private porter support also available). Please click here for more information and to see AMG’s departure dates. The quality of our Guide Staff is the primary difference between us and our competitors. I look forward to meeting you and climbing with you in Argentina! Can you arrange extra night lodging? Please use the training statement to determine what fitness levels are expected. What if I arrive early or depart late? Our extensive experience guiding Aconcagua (as well as other high peaks around the world) has produced outstanding and perhaps unprecedented success rates. Photo: Pablo Betancourt. —2020 Climber. My overall opinion of the program would be EXCELLENT!!! Hello everybody, the team “Aconcagua 5 ” is ready and excited to hit the trail. We stress these points to continue our high summit success and ensure that teams are well-balanced.”. pack (lesser pack weight if porters used) and be able to assist guides with setting up camp and tents. Small and easily overlooked, headlamps are extremely useful in the backcountry for pre-dawn alpine starts, late-night cooking sessions, and pretty much any other time a little extra light […], Is my training working? Questions about Aconcagua Mountain Guides – please contact Gordon Janow – [email protected]. Aconcagua - Normal Route. Real technical mountaineering experience, such as an Alpine Ascents 6 Day course, should be considered first. Do you have a good understanding of the physical difficulty of climbing Aconcagua ? Please note the Vacas Valley is the more physically demanding route. Look for a large Alpine Ascents sign. >More Testimonials. Our Vacas Valley and Normal Route departures have numerous extra days built into the itinerary, and we methodically ascend the mountain with renowned guide staff at the helm. We ate lunch and spent about an hour up there enjoying the dramatic views of Aconcagua’s South Face. How much should I tip my guide and staff? America's Premier Mountain Guide Service and Climbing School www.AlpineAscents.com For 2020/21 we have increased our offerings on both the Normal Route and Vacas Valley Route. Hi, this is Willi Prittie again reporting from Argentina with the Alpine Ascents International Aconcagua program. In over 25 years of guiding Aconcagua, only a handful teams have not reached the summit — a team success rate of about 90%. Their personable communication skills were top notch! But descending Aconcagua, I saw quite the scene. Alpine Ascents International leads expeditions that have become benchmarks of quality in the climbing community. Lead Guide: Connor Chilcott Willi Prittie, Cleary they are passionate about their craft and excited to share their knowledge. Everybody is doing great except for Chris who has decided to head back today, he back in Penitents tonight and will be headed on to Mendoza. Women’s Courses and Climbs; About The Seven Summits; How to Choose A Guide Service; Outreach Programs; Worldwide Climbs. 10-Day Course. We highly recommend our 6 Day mountaineering course or Mt. With a seasonal office in Mendoza, we can quickly respond to issues that arise on the mountain. On the upper mountain, lunch begins right after breakfast and ends shortly before dinner, i.e. Full refunds, less registration fee, will be provided 120 days prior to course, trek and/or expedition date. America's Premier Mountain Guide Service and Climbing School www.AlpineAscents.com In over 25 years of guiding Aconcagua, only a handful teams have not reached the summit — a team success rate of about 90%. Alpine Ascents International makes it their mission to offer the opportunity for climbers at all levels to achieve their personal aspirations through quality, challenging, safe and fun expeditions. December through February are the months when the weather is most stable, however, high winds can occur any time of the year. Photo: Willi Prittie. AAI (Alpine Ascents International) $27,000.00 - $30,000.00 Aug, Sep, Oct 45 Days Hi there. Quieter, more aesthetically pleasing, and offering a chance to traverse the mountain, this route employs three camps above basecamp, and offers ample rest and extra days — Aconcagua at its finest. Realize that Aconcagua is a very dry and, at times, cold and dusty environment; probably the likes of which you have never experienced. Lead guides are Seattle-based professionals who lead each trip. Truly do NOT know how you could make it any better. Over the last 25+ years we have developed a superb system on the mountain that affords you the best chance of proper acclimatization and summit success. This followed our 2017/2018 which proved our best season to date as we added the Normal Route to our offerings and had overall 100% team success for the 2nd season in a row. We are one of the few outfitters that offer this type of support (and in turn, we have a high success rate and outstanding safety record). Tour Operator: Alpine Ascents International Tour Information: Offers opportunities for climbers at all levels to achieve personal goals through challenging, safe and enjoyable expeditions. Alpine Ascents International recommends the follow training plans. If your only mountain experience has been something like Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua is a big step up in challenge. (For more information on this, please review the climber packet sent to you after registration.). The Gear Lists are created by the guides so that climbers will be prepared to summit in any conditions. Senior Guide, Alpine Ascents International. In all four categories, Alpine Ascents ranks highest in the climbing industry. View of Camp 1 nestled into some rock wind walls. Alpine Ascents knocked it outta the park! In the evening, we shared a delicious dinner together with another descending Alpine Ascents team at the Hotel Ayelen. Photo: Willi Prittie. Alpine Ascents International has a long standing reputation of leading successful climbs as well as acting as a prime resource for guide books, climbers and the media. Please note for the upper mountain each individual client primarily provides his or her own snack food to accommodate for individual preferences. Mt. These links will bounce to Amazon.com with reviews. Hello everybody, the team “Aconcagua 5 ” is ready and excited to hit the trail. A truly awesome mountain!!! Alpine Ascents International is an authorized mountain guide service of Denali National Park and Preserve and Mount Rainier National Park. Congratulations again to all of the ladies on the team!! Make sure that you seriously consider what you are attempting to do on an expedition, and how physically demanding it is (and consult with your doctor) before you decide to join.
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